402.556.2006
Open Mon - Thurs 11a.m. - 11p.m., Fri and Sat 11a.m. - midnight, closed Sunday
goldbergsindundee.com
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| Cheeseburger on Pretzel Bun with Curly Fries ($8.50): Seasoned, juicy patty, toasted pretzel bun and crisp toppings. Passed all points of the burger inspection with flying colors. |
My recent visit to Goldberg's in Dundee evoked the repetition (in my head) of one of my least favorite adages: "It is what it is."
The cheeseburger was well-proportioned, and in many ways an exemplary model fit for even the most stringent burgerphiles. The atmosphere, marked by straight backed booths, senior citizens yammering on, and even a mural of what I think was Memorial Park, was charming. The decorative details from decades past and the intimate, relaxed feel reminded me of any one of my home city's bajillion Irish pubs.
The soup was clearly not the focus here -- I'd be surprised if it wasn't doctored up Campbell's, served lukewarm -- but the oyster crackers made me smile. No need to quibble over the unimportant. Goldberg's says they're good at "Burgers, Beers & Bloody Marys," and I believe them.
While the food was mostly pretty good, I'd probably have to befriend some regulars to really get the feel for what makes this place so special. And if I never get around to that, I'll still go here next time I'm in the mood to bust my gut with all of the good things in life. I hear their salads are nice, too.
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| Pastrami Melt, slathered with creamy horseradish sauce, and sweet potato fries, which chicks really dig for some reason ($9.45). |
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| The Fourth "B," Bread Pudding ($5.75) |
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| Beef broth soup with the occasional grain of barley and random corn kernel ($4.25). |
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