Omahype Exclusive: Localmotive Food Truck

Some words about the coolest new food truck on the block: here.

Even before Taco Bell invented Fourth Meal, humans everywhere were predisposed to late-night pig-outs. Fast food drive-thrus have been happy to accommodate this behavior for many years. But now, Omahans finally have the late-night fodder they deserve. Localmotive, a food truck specializing in made-from-scratch seasonal cuisine that also happens to be inexpensive, is here.

The staples are the Rounders, a third cousin twice removed of the Hot Pocket. The reuben version (pictured above) has crunchy kraut, braised corned beef, and Swiss cheese encased in a round layer of fluffy dough, crispy on the outside, with a remoulade dipping sauce. The only thing missing is the overdose of sodium most reuben sandwiches have. Three of these little balls of joy will run you only $5, making them a prime rival for tacos.

Egg Rounders, Whole Grain Mustard Hollandaise

Though you might have to dine in your car or standing on the street, you don’t have to wonder what you’re eating. They roast whole Plum Creek natural chickens for their sandwiches. Full of rich flavors, but not colossal in size, mine had plenty of pulled dark meat. My only gripe was that with some bites, the bacon dominated all the other flavors. Bacon does that. Still, a chef friend of mine bestowed it with the title of Best Sandwich Ever.

Plum Creek Farms Pulled Chicken, Crispy Bacon, Provolone, Caramelized Onion-Green Chile Jam, Chipotle Aioli, Focaccia ($7)

Another contender is the meatball sandwich. The house-ground meat with a healthy dose of herbs mixed in really gave it an edge over other similar subs. The thin, hand-cut fries came hot and crispy, and I rounded up little bundles to submerge in aioli.

Menu items will rotate with the seasons, and desserts are offered by local company the Chocolates Bar. While they’re committed to feeding late-night diners, the truck will be open for lunch soon, too. The Localmotive mission of seasonal and locally sourced is not usually what we’re thinking about when we’re foraging the streets for food at 2 a.m., but it’s definitely a bonus. Now, if only food trucks could be more like ice cream trucks and cruise by my house…

Originally appeared on Omahype.com, March 29, 2012

The French Cafe -- RIP

Old Market, Omaha
thefrenchcafe.com

"Croque Monsieur ($12) A French classic!
Grilled ham and Gruyere cheese topped with sauce Mornay,
served with pommes frites"

Fingers are pointing every which way, trying to determine the guilty party responsible for the French Cafe abruptly closing its doors forever. It wasn't the mayor and his nominal 2.5% dining tax, and it wasn't Old Market parking issues. It was the food and service, which in my opinion were mediocre at best. If you're going to stick to textbook French for over forty years, you damn well better know how to make sauce Mornay. Sadly, the key ingredient on the Croque Monsieur sandwich tasted not like smooth, cheesy velvet, but more like sticking my tongue into a bag of flour. Really, the whole dish was a mess. But thou shalt not speak ill of the dead.

Crusty Roll and Butter

At brunch last week, the warm rolls with fancy whipped butter were absolutely delectable, and I wished I could have avoided the disappointing oeufs dishes and just sat there, in front of the giant tacky photographs of Parisian street life on the wall, and stuffed myself with carbs. Perhaps an informal Euro-style bakery would be a more fitting use of the space, instead of a $30 a plate shit show. It is sad to see an Omaha institution close, but the owners were smart to know when to bow out of the game. Now, I wonder if they'll be auctioning off their flatware...

Omelette au Saucisson with house-made sausage ($12), definitely just "ok."
I think I'd rather have a McDonald's hashbrown than these unseasoned fried cubes. 

Blueberry Pancakes with a Runaway Frite

Red Zone BBQ

UPDATE: IT'S CLOSED! GONE! 

2056 North 117th Avenue (shopping center at northeast corner of 120th and Blondo)

Omaha, NE 68164

402.431.9663

Sun-Thurs 11am-9pm, Fri and Sat 11am-10pm

eatredzonebbq.com

"The Big Memphis ($7.49):
Pulled pork with Memphis slaw and real Memphis BBQ sauce,"
pork nacho warmer in the background

Most of what I know about Memphis-style barbecue is from dudes who have passed through the hot and sticky city in the mid-South and gorged themselves, time and time again, on real Memphis "Q." Driving along the other day, my gut involuntarily pointed to Red Zone, and I pulled helplessly into the parking lot. Fortunately I had a barbecue buff in tow to help me pick apart the place. 

"Now THAT'S a sandwich!" The lady behind the counter made no attempt to disguise her pride as she set the meat mountain right on the tray. Just like in Memphis, no need for plates out here in Northwest Omaha. The pile of pulled pork wasn't extremely tender, and the first bite was a hard chunk of fat. Be that as it may, the slaw was crunchy and a little creamy, and the sauce was spicy like it's 'sposed to be. The ultra-white bun was "Wonder"-ful. Though the Big Memphis sandwich was enough to satiate the two of us for snack time, a comparable item would be about half the price in the Barbecued Pork Capital of the World. Still, the buff said it was better than at Tops, the big chain in Memphis. 

The interior design couldn't be less "authentic Memphis," but numerous televisions and red painted walls should be good for Huskers devotees. Their logo was so prominent throughout, I wondered if this was a national chain that had somehow eluded me my entire life. It's not. I may return to Red Zone to sample some of their more interesting creations, like the Pork Nacho Boat and Rubbed Cheesy Balls, especially since they've recently added a few draft handles. Next time I think I'll try a Bud and a brisket. 

Dessert at V. Mertz

1022 Howard Street
Omaha, NE 68102
402.345.8980
Open for dinner Tues thru Sat at 5:30pm
vmertz.com

"Chocolate Mascarpone ($8):
Mascarpone Mousse, Flourless Cake, Devil's Food, Raspberry, Mint"

Yes, they even let bums like me into this lavish joint. Anywhere that's touted as "one of the most expensive restaurants in Omaha" might sound a little intimidating, but not too much to mosey on up to the bar, have myself a seat and order some whiskey and cake. The Chocolate Mascarpone had alternating bites of flourless chocolate and devil's food cake, along with mint oil and cranberry cubes. Apart from the involved plating, the cake could indeed stand on its own. Their Manhattan cocktail was gloriously smooth, I suspect due to the addition of a little Ruby Port. I would so slip into V. Mertz after work for one of those in my business suit if I owned a business suit.

I suggest the Mertz crew remind themselves there is a fine line between earned pretentiousness and acting downright cocky. At nicer places, I'm prepared to hear the staff speaking with a faux-British inflection and scoffing at my rookie wine pairings. But when the bartender uttered the words, "Everything's amazing, I trust?" I almost choked on my decorative pointy chocolate shard.

Read the rest of my flourless chocolate adventures here.

"V. Mertz Manhattan ($10):
Bulleit Bourbon, Ruby Port, Sweet Vermouth, Creme de Cassis and Angustura bitters"
(Psst... Mertz... You spelled Angostura wrong!)

Brunch at Jackson Street Tavern

1125 Jackson Street
Omaha, NE 68102
402.991.5637
Open Tues thru Thurs 11am-10pm, Fri and Sat 11am-midnight, Sunday brunch 10am-2pm
jacksonstreettavern.com

Colorado Omelette:
Ham, peppers, onions and cheddar,
with marble rye and the besterest homefries around

Bailey's & Coffee--
Ever notice that Bailey's smells gross unless you're the one drinking it?
A worthy beverage to start your day.

People are weird about their eggs. In another life I was a diner waitress, and I served everything from "scrambled soft with American cheese" to "over hard and don't break the yolks" to the ever-popular "basted." It should be hard to mess up brunch food, but the truth is it's far too easy. Too many options, too many special requests, too many things that don't taste good once they've been sitting under a heat strip. Bacon that's too crispy, or not crispy enough. People who are pissed off 'cause they just came from church. You get the idea. And need I remind you that hardly any of it is even remotely good for you.

Many of the dishes jived with what I think makes a good brunch, but not all. My Colorado Omelette was a neatly folded disc with the right amount of high-grade fillings. The homefries were absolutely spot on with what I prefer: red potatoes, skin on, sauteed with not too much butter and oil, and a present but not overwhelming dash of herbs. However, for once it seemed I was the object of most of my friends' plate envy. The Brunchaladas, in spite of savory ingredients like chorizo and enchilada sauce, got two votes of "blah" and "bland." The Tree Huggers pancakes were a major bummer, as I expected the banana slices to be a part of the actual pancake instead of lazily thrown on top. The result was nothing more than a heavy and dry waste of Bisquick. A few other items were deemed "pretty damn good," but the only thing safe to say is that Jackson Street is a "hit or miss" kind of place right now.

Tree Huggers:
Banana-granola pancakes, maple syrup and whipped butter.
Thick, heavy, boring. This is how not to make pancakes. 

The atmosphere was easy like Sunday morning. Lots of natural light to show off our under-eye circles, hard-earned from the night before, and efficient but not intrusive service. We totally were the assholes who overstayed our welcome almost an hour past closing time, but didn't catch a single hairy eyeball from the staff. This would be a great place to start off one of those "Sunday Fundays," complete with filling food at reasonable prices, and a brunch cocktail or three.

California Omelette--
Stick an avocado on it and call it "California."
One of the good ones.

Black Hash--
Black angus corned beef and poached eggs provide you with the
right fuel to get through your Sunday on the sofa.
This one's a little messy. Square bowl reminiscent of a piggy trough? 

Brunchaladas--
Might want to rethink this one.

Old Dundee Bar & Grill

4964 Dodge Street
Omaha, NE 68132
402.558.0801
Open daily for dinner, kitchen open late
Old Dundee on Urbanspoon:

A very respectable Fish & Chips

People sure did love that 49'r place. I arrived in Omaha just as they were auctioning off their tupperware, shortly before the big demolition and eerie replacement with a huge, shiny new CVS. Just a block away from the sacred ground of the 49'r grave, the Old Dundee seems to be handling a lot of their old patrons; on any given night you should watch for darts whizzing past your head and drunks stealing your bar stool. I, for one, really like it here. The downstairs bar in particular has excellent service, a decent tap selection (Hopluia, Ranger IPA, and so on), and a few comfy booths to get your grub on. It's impractical to pick apart the menu like it's some sort of five-star joint. The food feels good going down, which in this setting is what matters. For weeks now, Old Dundee has been featuring Soul Food Sundays, where you can pick up a plateful of favorites like featherbones, cornbread, and collard greens. This special dish changes weekly, and at under $7 a plate, it is not to be missed. If you're not into soul food (and to that I say, what's wrong with you?), the regular menu boasts a crispy pork tenderloin, fried pickles, honky-style nachos, and burgers galore. 2-for-1 shots are also available on Sundays to get your "drunger" going. Bring a couple of ones for jukebox tunes and cozy up to the bar. It's what the 49'r would have wanted.

Last week's Soul Food Sunday:
Fried chicken, greens, cornbread

Kimson Seafood Grill

333 North 78th Street (in shopping center with Brazen Head and Omaha Steaks)
Omaha, NE 68114
402.926.2700
Open daily for lunch and dinner

Chicken Pho--
A temporary bout of misjudgment led my dining buddy
to order chicken instead of beef. Still tasty. 

Definitely go to Kimson when you're extra hungry, and be prepared to be delighted by the delicacy of flavors in dishes that can be laden with too much soy sauce or fish oil or what have you. Definitely do not go to Kimson on any hallucinogens whatsoever. The interior would almost be too weird for a Surrealist master, in that it makes no sense at all. Take someone here to avoid awkward conversation, since there's plenty of paintings, neon signs and knickknacks to stare at.

There are a few pho snobs out there who say Kimson's endless bowl is too oily. This was not at all apparent to me, but maybe I got a good batch. Points for the giant stem of fresh basil, instead of stupid cilantro like some places try to get away with. The heap of noodles and steamy broth make this excellent winter comfort food. Do not argue with me.

Crispy Noodle Combo

There's not much to say about the crispy noodle "combo" with chicken, beef and shrimp, other than the meat was tender, the vegetables crunchy, and the sauce didn't weigh me down with an MSG coma. I enjoyed the big hairy looking pile of noodles; they sopped up the sauce perfectly.

The waiter/owner/major Dude, whatever he is, provided prompt service, but didn't encroach on our privacy whilst refilling our waters a zillion times. The two dishes with tax and tip came to about $25, which may be more than you'd pay in say, Vietnam, but my experience was totally worth it. Don't be a pho snob and check it out.